The Mighty Mekong

Sabaidee (Lao Greeting),

Sorry for the delay in posting ~ I hope you’ve enjoyed a wonderful two weeks!  Here’s what’s been happening with me:

I finally went on the Grasshopper Adventures (bicycling) website to find out whether or not I made the cut.  I did – I’m in almost all of the pictures (still debating whether that's good or bad:-)!  Here’s the link: http://www.grasshopperadventures.com/en/day-tours/chiang-mai-countryside-by-bike.html

While I’m clearing up old business, I might as well tell you about yoga. I've made the decision to table yoga for a while.  I did try out the Gentle Restorative class, and it was excellent, but the real problem is getting there during rush hour.  These days, I just do my yoga stretches here in my apartment before I get dressed in the mornings.  I save money and reduce my stress.  Works for me!

Now...on to Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995.  This mountainous region is just so strikingly beautiful, that I started taking pictures before the plane landed!  Here's one of those pictures:

Laos from the plane

My friend, Han, helped me arrange this trip with Khamsouk, the owner of Villa Meuang Lao hotel. Khamsouk arranged for me to be greeted at the airport and taken to the hotel.  During the drive, I was given an orientation about the area.  Villa Meuang Lao hotel is close to almost everything that one would want to see in Luang Prabang (including the Mekong River), and Khamsouk's family members who run the hotel do an excellent job.  I felt well-cared-for.  To find out more about Villa Meuang Lao, go to this link:  http://villameuang-lao.com/

After settling into my room, I went walking on the main street (literally 2 minutes walk) in search of a place to exchange money. At the time of my trip, $1 = approximately 8,152 kip (Lao currency).  A dollar can go a really long way in Laos!  Money exchanged...I went about finding a place to book a boat tour on the Mighty Mekong.  Later that evening, I walked down to where the Mekong and Khan Rivers meet and had dinner at the Viewpoint Cafe (http://www.mekongriverview.com/restaurant).  A beautiful location!  I enjoyed sitting out under the stars watching the lights on the rivers.

Although there are boats for hire all along the Mekong River, I booked my tour through Nava Mekong (http://navamekong.com/the-concept/pak-ou-cave-cruise/).  What an enjoyable trip!  It lasted about 4 hours with 2 stops - one at a weaving village (definitely underwhelming - more like a crafts market) and the other at the Pak Ou Caves.  The tour also included a lunch of typical Lao cuisine.  For more about Pak Ou Caves, click here:http://www.luangprabang-laos.com/The-Pak-Ou-Caves.

My silhouette inside at Pak Ou Caves

Pak Ou Caves from the Nava Mekong

On the boat trip, I managed to have conversations with several of the Lao tour guides.  One of the males is a former monk and spoke English, Chinese, Thai and Lao.  A female guide was helping a couple of Japanese tourists.  The other male guide had lived in Cuba, where he worked as a doctor.  His group was from Argentina.  I spoke to all of these people with excellent English (LOL), limited Thai (many Laos also speak Thai) and confused Spanish.  I'm a language lover, so it was all very exciting!

The sun in Laos is just as intense as the sun in Thailand, so I spent most afternoons in the coolness of my room at the hotel.  On my second evening, I tried to eat at Tamarind restaurant (http://www.tamarindlaos.com/), which had been recommended as a place to go.  Apparently they are very popular, so I made a reservation for the following night and went next door to Rosella Fusion Restaurant (http://www.afar.com/places/rosella-fusion-restaurant-luang-prabang?context=geo&context_id=35017), which was surprisingly good! 

Here in Chiang Mai, I use transportation a lot, but in Luang Prabang, I was able to walk everywhere.  It was really nice.  I never got a chance to ride in one of the Luang Prabang tuk-tuk's:

Luang Prabang Tuk-tuk parked outside Villa Meuang Lao

Day 3 - after a lovely breakfast at the hotel (throughout which I chatted with Sak, one of Khamsouk's nephews), the day was filled with sightseeing, eating and walking.  I toured Mount Phousi or Phousi Hill (http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/mount-phousi.htm).  I also toured the Royal Palace Museum (where I was almost denied entry because the sleeves on my blouse were deemed questionable - more on this in a later blog).  Here's a link to the Royal Palace Musuem:
http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/royal-palace-museum.htm
After a coffee at the aforementioned Viewpoint Cafe, I went to Wat Xieng Thong (where they did not question my sleeve length but asked me to pull my skirt down - more later).  Here's a picture I took at Wat Xieng Thong (http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/wat-xieng-thong.htm):

Wat Xieng Thong (notice Naga in doorway)

Closeup of Naga in doorway

After all that touring, I was famished.  I wanted to eat something different, so I chose a roadside stall where some Lao locals were eating.  I ordered the tam som (green papaya salad) and sticky rice...topped off with a Beer Lao.  Yumsers!!!!  Nice and full...I walked back to the hotel for my siesta.

In the evening, I walked down to Tamarind, excited about my wonderful dinner to come.  I asked the waiter to recommend a dish, and he recommended mok pa - steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf - which I had with khao niaw - sticky rice.  Have I mentioned that I'm a sticky rice-aholic (borrowed phrase)?  As I sat there eating, I noticed how they were continually turning away people who had not made reservations.  At first, I was smug - glad I had made a reservation; but then I felt guilty.  I passed on dessert and walked instead to Auberge et Cafe Les Tres Nagas (or 3 Nagas Hotel and Restaurant) and had the best chocolate crepe EVER!  Washed down by a chocolate martini!  Well worth waiting for:-)

My last day in Luang Prabang - I chose not to go on a long bike ride to the waterfalls (which I'm now regretting because I hear they're beautiful), but opted instead to hang around town.  In Laos, there are many wonderful causes to get behind if one so chooses. After breakfast, I went to the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center (TAEC).  Here's the link: www.taeclaos.org  I also stopped by the Lao Friends office, viewed their gallery and made a small donation.  More about Lao Friends here:https://www.fwab.org/laos  FYI - they need medical volunteers!  Additionally, I poked my head into Big Brother Mouse.   Here's the link to Big Brother Mouse:http://www.bigbrothermouse.com/

Late morning, I decided some air-conditioning might not be so bad, so I stopped by Pilgrim's Cafe to grab a coffee. http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g295415-d2372915-r166876557-Pilgrim_s_Cafe-Luang_Prabang_Luang_Prabang_Province.html  They had wi-fi, so I managed to stay a bit longer.  Before I knew it, lunch time arrived...so I had lunch.  I also met a very nice British woman, Phill, who is doing volunteer work at TAEC (what a coincidence).  We arranged to meet for drinks at Viewpoint Cafe later that evening.  She recommended that I pay the small fee to cross the bamboo pedestrian bridge over to Ban Phan Luang, which I did later that day.  Here I am on the bridge:

Me on bamboo bridge crossing the Khan River

After crossing the bridge and touring Ban Phan Luang, I was beat!  So...I went back to the hotel to rest.  Around 4 p.m., there was a knock on the door.  It was Sak, with a message from Khamsouk to meet him at his wife's restaurant.  Han had mentioned the restaurant, so I'd been looking for it since my arrival, but I didn't know it by name.  Turns out the name is Phamsai Houng Chal Larn - a huge restaurant with beautiful views of the Khan River.  Sak took me on his motorcycle (no - I did not have a helmet:-) to the restaurant, where we were told that there had been a change of plans, and Khamsouk wouldn't be there until 6 p.m. With extra time on my hands, I decided to go to a recommended bakery.  Cafe Van Bat Sene (http://elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsene/) was just what I needed!

At 6 p.m. I walked down to the restaurant to meet Khamsouk for the first time.  What a lovely person!  I was not only treated to a delicious Lao dinner prepared by his wife, but I also enjoyed watching a traditional Lao Baci ceremony (a musical and dance ceremony that is often performed as a welcoming, and at weddings, births, etc.).  I took some pictures:

Musicians and singers

 Dancers

Khamsouk and Me

I finished the evening at Viewpoint Cafe with Phill.  We laughed a lot and closed the place down.  What a great way to end my first visit to Luang Prabang!

 The next day Khamsouk kindly drove me to the airport, and I flew back to Chiang Mai.  A wonderful trip...so glad I made the decision to go! 

My next post will explain the "more laters" and the Thai celebration Loi Krathong, so stay tuned...and
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!