Loi Krathong

Hello Family and Friends,

Happy December!  I hope you enjoyed your Thanksgiving holiday. Unfortunately, I had my first bout with what I think was food poisoning.  Luckily, I followed doctor's orders and am now feeling a lot better. Definitely not how I would have wanted to spend such a festive week.  Nevertheless...I still managed to have some fun!

Old business - shirt sleeves and skirts in temples.  Most of you know that I work very hard to be as polite and appropriate as possible...most of the time.  I am familiar with the proper dress etiquette for entering temples, and thought I had done so when I was in Luang Prabang.  My advice...always double-check with a local.  Or...bring a scarf or long-sleeved shirt to cover yourself when you enter a temple.  Admittedly the shirt that almost got me kicked out of the Luang Prabang Royal Palace Museum (which has a temple on the grounds) only covered my shoulder and part of my upper arm.  I had worn it in temples throughout Thailand so thought it was not a problem.  I don't normally wear skirts but decided to that day.  My skirt comes to my knees, but probably should have been a bit longer.  Many temples have signs before you enter showing what is appropriate.  Here is a link that explains it pretty well: http://goseasia.about.com/od/travelplanning/a/visiting_buddhist_temples.htm Lesson learned*sigh*

Loi Krathong/Pee Yeng Celebration (sometimes spelled Loy Kratong) - The Festival of Light

This is the best link for explaining the celebration in Chiang Mai.

http://chiangmaibest.com/loy-krathong-yee-peng/

I was told by the staff here at my apartment that last year, they celebrated Loy Kratong the entire month of November.  This year, the government placed limits on the celebration, so it only lasted for 3 days.  There were concerns about the lanterns interfering with air traffic, so air traffic was discontinued after a certain hour on the 2nd day to allow for the launching of the lanterns.  All I know is that the fireworks started on Sunday and didn't stop until Saturday.  Not sure how the fireworks affected air traffic.  For me, it was a "sleeping with my earplugs" kind of week!

Loy Kratong Day 1 - A group of us celebrated the beginning of Loy Kratong at Han's condo with lots of lights, candles, pizza, salad, wine, beer and lots...I mean lots of desserts.  Han had the place lit up!  And we had fun eating and talking.  This is the only picture I took:

Han's Lit Up Condo (candles on the balcony)

Loi Krathong Day 2 - During each of the 5 years that we lived in Bangkok, we floated krathongs (Lauren wouldn't have it any other way:-).  It was a simple ceremony carried out the evening of the full moon.  "Loi/Loy" means to float, and a krathong is a lotus-shaped float.  Traditional krathongs are made from a slice of the trunk of a banana tree.  These days, due to concerns about the environment, many krathongs were made out of bread.  The bread dissolves or is eaten by fish.  Here are a couple of links about how to make krathongs:

https://www.facebook.com/notes/amazing-thailand/lets-see-how-to-make-a-krathong/236896379703907

http://ec.payap.ac.th/?page_id=808

Picture of my kratong (no - I did not make it myself)

I'm also including the English and Thai versions of the Loy Kratong song.  You can't float your kratong without singing the song!

Thai version - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UP1N2kYZ-Gc

English version - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GNJWizHWMxc

Chiang Mai not only celebrates Loi Krathong but also celebrates Pee Yeng, which includes the launching of lanterns.

Lanterns being released in the street

Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai is so popular, that people come from all over to take part in it.  On the 2nd night, the main streets near the river were so crowded, you could hardly walk.  I worried a bit about the possibility of a stampede if something serious happened.  Luckily, no stampede occurred. Han and I persevered and made it to the river to float our krathongs.

With regard to lanterns, people were not all that knowledgeable about how to launch them.  A couple of lanterns failed to launch and came crashing back into the crowd.  Not good.  A few disintegrated in mid-air.  Since I was planning to float a kratong, I thought it best to shrink my global footprint by not launching a lantern.  Nonetheless, they looked lovely once they were floating up into the sky.  It was a magical night!

Loy Kratong Day 3 - I was not feeling well enough to venture out for the parade on the last night, so I've attached a link that will give you an idea of what it looked like:

http://www.chiangmai-alacarte.com/loy-krathong-festival-november-24-25-and-26-2015

Although this is an enjoyable traditional celebration, it is not great for the environment.   If I return to Thailand again during the Loi Krathong festival, I won't float a kratong or launch a lantern.  Pollution is pollution and affects us all no matter which country we happen to be living in at the time. The clean-up of the river after Loy Kratong was massive, and I am still seeing lanterns on the side of the road, in trees and hanging from electrical wires (yikes!).   Here is a link to a blog post that explains what happens on a more personal level (she uses the word phalang = foreigners):
https://resaeaves.wordpress.com/2010/11/28/thegoodthebadandthefacts/

Festivals are so much fun - mainly because they involve people getting together to celebrate!  Like most Thais, I love a good celebration, but my hope for Thailand is that Thais find a safer and more sustainable way to celebrate this wonderful festival!

Have a great week!

The Mighty Mekong

Sabaidee (Lao Greeting),

Sorry for the delay in posting ~ I hope you’ve enjoyed a wonderful two weeks!  Here’s what’s been happening with me:

I finally went on the Grasshopper Adventures (bicycling) website to find out whether or not I made the cut.  I did – I’m in almost all of the pictures (still debating whether that's good or bad:-)!  Here’s the link: http://www.grasshopperadventures.com/en/day-tours/chiang-mai-countryside-by-bike.html

While I’m clearing up old business, I might as well tell you about yoga. I've made the decision to table yoga for a while.  I did try out the Gentle Restorative class, and it was excellent, but the real problem is getting there during rush hour.  These days, I just do my yoga stretches here in my apartment before I get dressed in the mornings.  I save money and reduce my stress.  Works for me!

Now...on to Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995.  This mountainous region is just so strikingly beautiful, that I started taking pictures before the plane landed!  Here's one of those pictures:

Laos from the plane

My friend, Han, helped me arrange this trip with Khamsouk, the owner of Villa Meuang Lao hotel. Khamsouk arranged for me to be greeted at the airport and taken to the hotel.  During the drive, I was given an orientation about the area.  Villa Meuang Lao hotel is close to almost everything that one would want to see in Luang Prabang (including the Mekong River), and Khamsouk's family members who run the hotel do an excellent job.  I felt well-cared-for.  To find out more about Villa Meuang Lao, go to this link:  http://villameuang-lao.com/

After settling into my room, I went walking on the main street (literally 2 minutes walk) in search of a place to exchange money. At the time of my trip, $1 = approximately 8,152 kip (Lao currency).  A dollar can go a really long way in Laos!  Money exchanged...I went about finding a place to book a boat tour on the Mighty Mekong.  Later that evening, I walked down to where the Mekong and Khan Rivers meet and had dinner at the Viewpoint Cafe (http://www.mekongriverview.com/restaurant).  A beautiful location!  I enjoyed sitting out under the stars watching the lights on the rivers.

Although there are boats for hire all along the Mekong River, I booked my tour through Nava Mekong (http://navamekong.com/the-concept/pak-ou-cave-cruise/).  What an enjoyable trip!  It lasted about 4 hours with 2 stops - one at a weaving village (definitely underwhelming - more like a crafts market) and the other at the Pak Ou Caves.  The tour also included a lunch of typical Lao cuisine.  For more about Pak Ou Caves, click here:http://www.luangprabang-laos.com/The-Pak-Ou-Caves.

My silhouette inside at Pak Ou Caves

Pak Ou Caves from the Nava Mekong

On the boat trip, I managed to have conversations with several of the Lao tour guides.  One of the males is a former monk and spoke English, Chinese, Thai and Lao.  A female guide was helping a couple of Japanese tourists.  The other male guide had lived in Cuba, where he worked as a doctor.  His group was from Argentina.  I spoke to all of these people with excellent English (LOL), limited Thai (many Laos also speak Thai) and confused Spanish.  I'm a language lover, so it was all very exciting!

The sun in Laos is just as intense as the sun in Thailand, so I spent most afternoons in the coolness of my room at the hotel.  On my second evening, I tried to eat at Tamarind restaurant (http://www.tamarindlaos.com/), which had been recommended as a place to go.  Apparently they are very popular, so I made a reservation for the following night and went next door to Rosella Fusion Restaurant (http://www.afar.com/places/rosella-fusion-restaurant-luang-prabang?context=geo&context_id=35017), which was surprisingly good! 

Here in Chiang Mai, I use transportation a lot, but in Luang Prabang, I was able to walk everywhere.  It was really nice.  I never got a chance to ride in one of the Luang Prabang tuk-tuk's:

Luang Prabang Tuk-tuk parked outside Villa Meuang Lao

Day 3 - after a lovely breakfast at the hotel (throughout which I chatted with Sak, one of Khamsouk's nephews), the day was filled with sightseeing, eating and walking.  I toured Mount Phousi or Phousi Hill (http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/mount-phousi.htm).  I also toured the Royal Palace Museum (where I was almost denied entry because the sleeves on my blouse were deemed questionable - more on this in a later blog).  Here's a link to the Royal Palace Musuem:
http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/royal-palace-museum.htm
After a coffee at the aforementioned Viewpoint Cafe, I went to Wat Xieng Thong (where they did not question my sleeve length but asked me to pull my skirt down - more later).  Here's a picture I took at Wat Xieng Thong (http://www.visit-laos.com/luang-prabang/wat-xieng-thong.htm):

Wat Xieng Thong (notice Naga in doorway)

Closeup of Naga in doorway

After all that touring, I was famished.  I wanted to eat something different, so I chose a roadside stall where some Lao locals were eating.  I ordered the tam som (green papaya salad) and sticky rice...topped off with a Beer Lao.  Yumsers!!!!  Nice and full...I walked back to the hotel for my siesta.

In the evening, I walked down to Tamarind, excited about my wonderful dinner to come.  I asked the waiter to recommend a dish, and he recommended mok pa - steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf - which I had with khao niaw - sticky rice.  Have I mentioned that I'm a sticky rice-aholic (borrowed phrase)?  As I sat there eating, I noticed how they were continually turning away people who had not made reservations.  At first, I was smug - glad I had made a reservation; but then I felt guilty.  I passed on dessert and walked instead to Auberge et Cafe Les Tres Nagas (or 3 Nagas Hotel and Restaurant) and had the best chocolate crepe EVER!  Washed down by a chocolate martini!  Well worth waiting for:-)

My last day in Luang Prabang - I chose not to go on a long bike ride to the waterfalls (which I'm now regretting because I hear they're beautiful), but opted instead to hang around town.  In Laos, there are many wonderful causes to get behind if one so chooses. After breakfast, I went to the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center (TAEC).  Here's the link: www.taeclaos.org  I also stopped by the Lao Friends office, viewed their gallery and made a small donation.  More about Lao Friends here:https://www.fwab.org/laos  FYI - they need medical volunteers!  Additionally, I poked my head into Big Brother Mouse.   Here's the link to Big Brother Mouse:http://www.bigbrothermouse.com/

Late morning, I decided some air-conditioning might not be so bad, so I stopped by Pilgrim's Cafe to grab a coffee. http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g295415-d2372915-r166876557-Pilgrim_s_Cafe-Luang_Prabang_Luang_Prabang_Province.html  They had wi-fi, so I managed to stay a bit longer.  Before I knew it, lunch time arrived...so I had lunch.  I also met a very nice British woman, Phill, who is doing volunteer work at TAEC (what a coincidence).  We arranged to meet for drinks at Viewpoint Cafe later that evening.  She recommended that I pay the small fee to cross the bamboo pedestrian bridge over to Ban Phan Luang, which I did later that day.  Here I am on the bridge:

Me on bamboo bridge crossing the Khan River

After crossing the bridge and touring Ban Phan Luang, I was beat!  So...I went back to the hotel to rest.  Around 4 p.m., there was a knock on the door.  It was Sak, with a message from Khamsouk to meet him at his wife's restaurant.  Han had mentioned the restaurant, so I'd been looking for it since my arrival, but I didn't know it by name.  Turns out the name is Phamsai Houng Chal Larn - a huge restaurant with beautiful views of the Khan River.  Sak took me on his motorcycle (no - I did not have a helmet:-) to the restaurant, where we were told that there had been a change of plans, and Khamsouk wouldn't be there until 6 p.m. With extra time on my hands, I decided to go to a recommended bakery.  Cafe Van Bat Sene (http://elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsene/) was just what I needed!

At 6 p.m. I walked down to the restaurant to meet Khamsouk for the first time.  What a lovely person!  I was not only treated to a delicious Lao dinner prepared by his wife, but I also enjoyed watching a traditional Lao Baci ceremony (a musical and dance ceremony that is often performed as a welcoming, and at weddings, births, etc.).  I took some pictures:

Musicians and singers

 Dancers

Khamsouk and Me

I finished the evening at Viewpoint Cafe with Phill.  We laughed a lot and closed the place down.  What a great way to end my first visit to Luang Prabang!

 The next day Khamsouk kindly drove me to the airport, and I flew back to Chiang Mai.  A wonderful trip...so glad I made the decision to go! 

My next post will explain the "more laters" and the Thai celebration Loi Krathong, so stay tuned...and
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Been there...done that...

Hello Family & Friends!

Another amazing week has gone by!  I’m a year older and extremely appreciative of my wonderful family and friends, good health and the blessings that I continue to receive from the universe.  Thank you all for being a part of my life and for making me feel so special.

For my birthday, I decided to treat myself to a short trip.  I went up to Chiang Rai – a three hour bus ride north.   I've been to Chiang Rai once before.  I was the photographer for the picture in blog post #1 of Bob, Marcus & Lauren in northern Thailand.  We went to Chiang Rai on that trip.  Some might say, "Been there...done that...why go again?"  In 1986 we weren't there long enough for any of us to have a really good memory of Chiang Rai, so I wanted to make some new memories.

Here are some highlights of my trip:

Davinci’s Italian Restaurant – Have I told you already that I LOVE Thai food?   On Saturday, after I arrived in Chiang Rai, I walked down to the “Walking Street” where they sell everything that you can imagine, including Thai food.  I’m not too interested in buying more stuff…but I was able to munch my way through the food stalls!  Tasty!

Afterwards, I was feeling the need for some cool air and a glass of wine.  While walking along, my eyes caught sight of some wine glasses, so I made a beeline for the restaurant.  Turns out it was Davinci’s.  It’s on the main street where the foreigners hang out.  The guy who seated me was nice, so we struck up a conversation in Thai.  After ordering my wine, I decided to order a mixed salad.  Surprise, surprise…it was the best mixed salad that I’d had in quite a while!  And it came with some good bread!  I ordered another glass of wine to help it all go down well.  I mentioned to the waiter that my birthday was the following day.  He said that if I returned, he would do something special.  I decided to return the next day mainly because that salad was SO good but also to see if he would remember.  I had my salad, my wine and spinach ravioli (delicious).  The waiter surprised me at the end of my meal by bringing out a nicely decorated brownie with birthday candles.  No singing – that made me happy!  Sorry – I failed to take a picture of the brownie – or get his name!  Nice way to celebrate my birthday, though!  And here's the link to a review - I couldn't find an actual restaurant website:

http://www.chiangraitimes.com/da-vinci-restaurant-review-chiangrai.html 

White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) – This temple was so sparkly, that it made me blink.  The artist  is Chalermchai Kositpipat.  Here's his wiki link:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalermchai_Kositpipat  

This link has great pictures:

http://www.thailandforchildren.com/chiang-mai-family-travel/chiang-rai/white-temple-wat-rong-khun-thailand

Here are a couple of mine:

 

 Not very good at selfies

The fish were amazing

Unfortunately the Golden bathrooms were closed for repairs, so I didn’t get to have that “golden” experience.

Black House - Thawan Duchanee was the artist for this creation!  Here's the wiki info about him: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thawan_Duchanee  

This link has great pictures: http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/black-house-chiang-rai-thailand/

The grounds where the Black House is located are beautiful.  Here is a picture I took (there were several horses):

Wadthampla Maesai Chiengrai (Monkey/Fish Cave) - I'm stealing someone else's blog post...again!  The pictures are so much better than mine:-(  I'm beginning to think I need to take a photography course and buy a better camera.  It would also help having someone along with me to take the photos (hint, hint)!  Here's the link:http://ullanadventures.com/monkey-fish-cave/

There were so many "wild" monkeys at this temple!  They wouldn't bother you unless you had food.  Vendors selling food would give each customer a bamboo stick to "shush" away the monkeys.  Not to hit them - just to hit the ground in order to scare them.  It was neat to watch the monkeys carrying their babies, playing in the trees and eating.  The peanut vendor was very popular.  The monkeys would eat the peanuts right out of your hand!  Not mine - I passed on feeding them.  Of course, I did climb up to the cave.  That was fun! 

Here's one of my pictures (Monkey sitting to the right of the Naga heads):

Golden Triangle – Yep!  So close I had to go.  I don't know why, but I got a little anxious walking to this spot.  There is so much history here...and the Myanmar election!  For wiki info click here:  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Triangle_%28Southeast_Asia%29

Here are a couple of pictures:

Looking at Myanmar
 

All in all, it was a great weekend!  I’ll be in Laos next week, so will not do a blog post.  Look for another post two weeks from now!

Make every moment count!